wine

When Brett Meets Wine

I’ve had brett on the brain lately (not literally). I’m referring of course to brettanomyces, a yeast that can impart the dreaded barnyard or band-aid aromas into wine. This fascination started when tasting Rafanelli’s 2009 Zinfandel. As discussed in last week’s post, Wine Spectator’s Tim Fish noted the presence of brett in recent vintages of Rafanelli’s Zinfandels. I was definitely picking up a small degree of brett in the ’09 Zin. What I found most interesting was the contrast of reviews for this particular wine in CellarTracker. While some were gushing serious praise, others were basically calling the wine a brett-bomb. These conflicting accounts speak to the variety of palates out there and the sensitivities that some wine drinkers have to brett.

In the past year, I can think of two brett-bombs that I’ve tasted, blowing way past the level of “flawed” and into the category of “faulty”. One bottle was a Mendocino County Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend that wreaked of the unmistakable smell of horse manure. The other was a Dry Creek Valley Syrah that displayed enough band-aid to handle a serious case of road rash. I struggled through roughly a glass of each and poured the rest down the drain. For the record, I hate pouring wine down the drain. My palate seems to be sensitive to brett, but I can tolerate it in small amounts. These two bottles happened to be over my threshold.

While there are some that actually like the barnyard and/or band-aid component in a wine, I think that it’s safe to say that most of us do not. Robert Parker and Steven Tanzer have been noted for giving high scores to wines considered my many to be bretty. Are Parker and Tanzer not picking up on the brett, or are they just ignoring it? If it’s the latter, I have a problem with that. Whether a wine writer (big-time or peon blogger) feels that the level of brett is minimal or even agreeable to the wine, in my opinion it should still be disclosed. There are a large number of wine consumers sensitive to brett that would benefit from this info, and it just might save them from buying wine that they don’t enjoy, or even worse, end up pouring down the drain.

I’d like to share a few links that provide some excellent information, discussion, and perspective on the heated topic of brett.

 

Posted on by Nick in Wine Column 4 Comments

$20 Above: Southard Syrah Lawrence Vineyard 2009

Southard Syrah Lawrence Vineyard 2009

Date Tasted: 12/20/12

Price: Suggested Retail is $25.00 (purchased for $22.00 via Full Pull Wines)

From The Winery: 14.5% alcohol. Lawrence Vineyard, Columbia Valley AVA. 337 cases produced.

Impressions/Notes: Southard Winery’s 2009 Lawrence Vineyard Syrah reminds me of the late, great John Wayne. Big, brawny, and downright likable, this dark and inky juice packs a punch. The fruit presence in this wine is minimal, with black cherry hiding in the mix. Expresso, dried herbs, black olive, pine nuts, tobacco smoke, and saline are the key aromas and flavors that rear their head. Full-bodied, chewy, and loaded with chalky tannins, it doesn’t take long for a complete staining of the teeth to occur. I strongly recommend decanting this wine for several hours prior to drinking. Even on day 2 of tasting, this wine was not completely opened up. If you can get your hands on this limited production Syrah, it’s definitely worth a try.

Rating: Recommended/Highly Recommended (88-92), 4/5 Value 

Posted on by Nick in $20 Above, Syrah, Washington 5 Comments

$20 Below: Barnard Griffin Syrah 2009

Barnard Griffin Syrah 2009

Date Tasted: 10/17/12

Price: Suggested Retail is $17.00 (Purchased for $14.00)

From The Winery: 13.8% alcohol. Columbia Valley AVA. Fruit sources- 71% Desert Aire Vineyard, with remainder from Weinbau Vineyard, Conner Lee Vineyard, and Lonesome Spring Ranch Vineyard. 3644 cases produced.

Impressions/Notes: Barnard Griffin’s 2009 Syrah falls on the fruitier side of Washington Syrah styles. There was a bit of a leathery aroma immediately after uncorking, but it didn’t take long before the rich blueberry and cherry aromas really started to pop on this wine. Mint, chocolate, and nutty carmel intermingle in the background. It’s a bit heavy on the palate, with chewy tannins, and above-average acidity. There’s also a considerable oak presence in the mouth, where spicy oak flavors are aplenty. Nothing flashy here–just an affordable, solid Syrah.

Rating: Recommended (86-89), 3/5 Value

Posted on by Nick in $20 Below, Syrah, Washington 2 Comments

$20 Below: Praxis Viognier, Cosentino Ol’ Red, Husch Mojo Red

Praxis Viognier Russian River Valley, 2010

Date Tasted: 7/13/12

Price: Suggested Retail is $18.00 (Purchased for $16.00)

From The Winery: 13.7% alcohol, 500 cases produced

Impressions/Notes: The Russian River Valley is best known for its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, but it’s always interesting to try some of the “other” grapes grown in the area. The nose on this Viognier greets you with lovely aromas of nectarine, mineral, and some distinct floral notes. In the mouth, salivating acidity waits pounces as soon as the nectarine and tart citrus flavors come to light, while the solid body of this wine does not go unnoticed. This is a wine I would definitely buy again.

Rating: Recommended (86-89), 3.5/5 Value

 

Cosentino Ol’ Red, California, Non-Vintage

Date Tasted: 7/15/12

Price: Suggested retail is $15.00 (purchased for $11.00)

From The Winery: 14.6% alcohol, produced from vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, Lodi, and Solano County. Aged 36 months in American and European (some French) oak.

Impressions/Notes: I don’t think that I’ve ever had a wine with so many different varietals going in to it–Pinot Noir, Syrah, Carignane, Zinfandel, Merlot, Sangiovese, Mouvedre, Petite Sirah, Dolcetto, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca and Tinta Cao. The nose on the Ol’ Red reaches out of the glass and nearly smacks you in the face with cherry liqueur, asian spiced, and cigar box. This wine spent 36 months in oak, so as one could imagine it has some serious oak influence. In the mouth, it’s a bit short on acidity and a bit big on alcohol, as it’s packing some serious heat. To me, this is the perfect wine for snow-shoveling, which we do plenty of in Colorado. A glass before going outside and the rest of the bottle after coming in should help to chase the cold out of your bones!

Rating: Not Too Shabby/Recommended (84-87), 2.5/5 Value

 

Husch Mojo Red, 2008

Date Tasted: 7/7/12

Price: Suggested retail is $12.00

From The Winery: 13.9% alcohol

Impressions/Notes: I saw this wine on the shelf and was immediately intrigued–it was $12.00 and consisted of a blend of around 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Pinot Noir (I don’t recall the exact numbers but I’m pretty sure this is close) from Mendocino County. This Cab. Sauv/Pinot Noir blend is not something that you see every day. The nose was briary, smoky, had a whiff of black currant, and a lingering barnyard aroma. I was hoping that the barnyard might disappear as it breathed, but unfortunately this was not the case (brett?). There was a bit more of a fruit presence in the mouth, as cranberry dominated. Big on acidity and light on tannins, while packing a bit of heat in the back of the mouth.

Rating: Not Too Shabby (80-85), 2.5/5 Value

Posted on by Nick in $20 Below, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Pinot Noir, Red Blends, Viognier, Wine Column 2 Comments

The Evolution of My Favorite Wine Drinker and Some Big News

A funny thing happened earlier this summer. It was one of those summer days where it was just tolerable enough to sit outside if you had the right cooling agent. The agent in question that day was a bottle of the new Charles and Charles Rose. My wife and I opened the chilled bottle and had a taste.

I’m pretty methodical when it comes to tasting wine. I generally take a sniff, swirl, sniff again, sip, slosh, reflect, and then jot down some notes in one of my tasting journals. If I’m tasting with my wife, I always ask her what aromas/flavors that she’s picking up in a given wine. When I first started posing this question to her, her answer generally ranged from “I have no idea” to a sarcastic “wine” or “grapes.” Over time, probably realizing that I wasn’t going to stop asking, she relented and began to play along.

Back to the aforementioned hot summer day. We took our first sip at roughly the same time. Midway through my “reflection period”, my train of thought was interrupted by her voice. “Watermelon, citrus, and floral notes, and maybe some kiwi.” I stuck my nose back in the glass, had a taste, and realized that she was pretty much right on the money. I couldn’t help but think about the evolution that we’ve gone through as wine drinkers. It’s a funny thing–I can point to certain times/events that have affected and changed the way that I think about wine, but many of the memories that stick out the most are related to her. A couple of my favorites are as follows:

  • Memory 1- Our first Napa trip was in 2009, less than a year after we were married. If the wine was red, she didn’t want anything to do with it. She stuck to the sparkling wines, Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs–pretty much anything white. Needless to say, I typically got two pours worth of Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, or Cabernet Sauvignon at each winery. I may have gotten her to try a few reds, but the result was futile.
  • Memory 2- In 2010, we took our first trip to Sonoma County, specifically to the Russian River and Dry Creek valleys. Again, I pushed her to try some of the reds. She took kindly to a few of the Zinfandels and Pinot Noirs that we tried–and we definitely tried some good ones on the trip. Most importantly, she was acknowledging that red wine didn’t necessarily suck.
  • Memory 3- In 2011, we took a return trip to the Russian River and Dry Creek Valleys (did I mention that we really love these regions). I was a very proud husband–I don’t think that there’s a wine that she turned down–Syrah, Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel–you name it, she tried it.
  • Memory 4- This is by far my most entertaining memory. We were at a wedding that served your standard beer/mixed drinks/lower-priced wines. Telling her I was going to get a glass of Cab, I asked her if I could grab her a glass of wine. Her response: “No thanks. I don’t think the wine is going to be any good here.” Wow, had I created a wine monster? Well, it turns out that she was right–the wine wasn’t very good.
  • Memory 5- Our recent trip to the Walla Walla Valley was basically a tasting marathon. Three days, twenty wineries, and well over a hundred wines, and she hung in there for every minute of it. I’m convinced that if we would have hit winery #21 she might have inflicted some physical pain on me (actually, I think she might have mentioned something to that effect). Still, she was quite the trooper.

A couple of weeks after I got showed up at our Charles and Charles Rose home tasting, we got some big news. Our first baby is on the way!! We have until the end of February to get as ready as possible for parenthood. I’m still allowed to drink as much wine as I choose on one condition–it can’t be any of the bottles that we purchased on our trips, as these are to be shared at a later date. It’s the easiest deal that I’ve ever made.

 

Posted on by Nick in California, Washington, Wine Column 5 Comments